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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, nestled prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has made the family totally astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” states a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.